Baur au Lac

SWITZERLAND’s financial centre, Zurich, is a bustling contemporary metropolis with a vibrant arts and culture scene, and a beautifully preserved old town with cobblestone streets and quaint churches. Situated in the north end of scenic Lake Zurich, the sprawling city has attracted business and leisure travellers for centuries.

Discerning travellers have often chosen to stay at the luxurious Baur au Lac, an establishment opened in 1844 by Johannes Baur, who built what was then a villa as an elegant residence for guests travelling incognito. The gorgeous villa boasted its own park and overlooked the lake and the Alps out yonder. Notable guests who have stayed in the lavish suites included European aristocracy such as Austria’s Empress Elisabeth, the Russian Tsarina and German Emperor Wilhelm II.

Composer Richard Wagner gave the world premiere of the first act of Die Walküre in the hotel, accompanied by his father-in-law, Franz Liszt. The list of performers who have staged here includes Arthur Rubinstein, Zubin Mehta, Plácido Domingo, Anne-Sophie Mutter and Sir Elton John as well as visual artists such as Marc Chagall, Joan Miró, Henry Moore and Fernando Botero. It was also here that the Baroness Bertha von Suttner convinced Swedish industrialist Alfred Nobel of the need for an international peace prize.

From what began as a villa, the Baur au Lac was enlarged to its present size in 1898. In recent times, the family-owned hotel has undergone extensive renovations, with stunning results. Its 120 rooms are imbued with a distinctly modern and elegant aesthetic while retaining its historic charm. The use of bold, vivid colours in furnishings, coupled with an eclectic selection of contemporary and vintage artworks, makes quite an impression.

The lobby lounge, which went through a makeover just two years ago, spearheaded by noted architect and designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, sports a domed skylight in the centre and a dazzling chandelier that softly illuminates the space outfitted with plush sofas, bright accents of colour and an Art Deco fireplace. Four trees in specially built boxes bring an element of the outdoors inside to great effect — it is truly a wonderful location for drinks, light bites and conversation.

The well-appointed rooms and suites are endowed with spacious marble bathrooms, all the modern conveniences one would expect of a five-star hotel, including free WiFi and a free minibar as well.

 

Dine and wine: The hotel has three restaurants, the most breathtaking of which is the Michelin-starred Pavilion. Set in an all-glass Victorian conservatory by the riverside with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out to the park and river, this is where hotel guests gather for breakfast. Diners are welcome for lunch and dinner. The menu serves seasonal and modern interpretations of classic haute cuisine, executed with much flair.

A bit more casual but no less refined,  the Rive Gauche restaurant and bar is located in the basement of the hotel. Modern European cuisine in a trendy yet elegant setting is what you will find, and the menu is a showcase of culinary creativity with its exquisite meat and fish dishes as well as a good selection of vegetarian and vegan options.

Open only in the summer months is The Rive Gauche Terrasse, an al fresco lounge perfect for indulgent afternoons and drinks in the evening. Choose from refreshing cocktails to ice-cold champagne as well as home-made sundaes,  light summer snacks and meals while enjoying the greenery of the private park and the Art in the Park showcase, which runs for two months every summer. The 14th edition of the annual outdoor art exhibition, which ended last month, featured Finnish artist Jani Leinonen’s provocative sculptures that poke fun at the world’s best-known brand names.

 

Beyond amenities: A welcome addition of the hotel’s refurbishment is the gym, converted from a penthouse suite. Treadmills face windows that provide spectacular views of Lake Zurich and the snow-capped Alps in the horizon — not at all a bad way to get a run in the morning.

No visit to Switzerland is complete without getting your hands on luscious chocolates to take home. You don’t have to go far as the hotel offers its own brand, the 1844 Chocolat Baur Au Lac. These chocolates are made from hand-picked cocoa varieties to ensure an exacting flavour profile. Some of the newer creations include the Rectangle Lait 43% Noisette, which combines dark and milk chocolate with roasted hazelnuts. The popular Rectangle Noir 70% Amande, now available in a bar, is for dark chocolate lovers while the assortment of Napolitains and Pralines is sure to please.

The hotel is also renowned for its incredibly well-stocked cellar. There are more than 3,000 wines and spirits to choose from, both New World and Old, at the various dining venues in the establishment and for purchase to take home. A good place to start would be the selection of Swiss wines.

 

Nearby attractions: Baur au Lac is within walking distance of Zurich’s famous shopping street, the Bahnhofstrasse, with luxury and high-street names in fashion and accessories aplenty, and charming confectionery shops and chic cafés where you can rest your weary feet and satiate your hunger. If you are looking to pick up a bottle of whisky, cognac or rum, make your way to Glen Fahrn in Oberdorfstrasse across the bridge, also within walking distance. This store boasts a vast selection of liquors at reasonable prices and knowledgeable staff who, more often than not, will let you have a taste of the spirit before you purchase.

If shopping is not your thing, just a few metres from the hotel is the famous dock, Bürkliplatz, where you can take a boat for a tour of Lake Zurich. During summer, this area turns into a flea market every Saturday.

Pavilion restaurant

 

Rooms and suites

This article first appeared in Options, a pullout of The Edge Malaysia Weekly, on Sept 5, 2016. Subscribe here for your personal copy.

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